France Defends Anti-Fast-Fashion Law Against China's WTO Threat
France has rejected China's claim that its new anti-fast-fashion law is discriminatory, insisting the measure is designed to protect the environment and consumers, not to target any specific country. The dispute, which could escalate into a trade conflict, comes as Beijing threatens retaliatory action.
What is the anti-fast-fashion law?
The French law, adopted by parliament in June and signed into law in July, defines ultra-fast fashion through two criteria: the number of new products a company launches and whether customers are encouraged to repair items rather than replace them. The scheme aims to reduce the fashion sector's environmental footprint while shielding France's ready-to-wear industry from a flood of low-cost imports.
The levy per item will vary on a predefined scale based on how each product scores against these criteria. It is paid by producers, not directly by consumers, although companies may pass on some or all of the cost through higher prices.
Why does China call the law discriminatory?
At a press conference on Thursday, Chinese commerce ministry spokeswoman Huang Ling called for the suspension of the law, accusing France of instrumentalising environmental arguments to introduce what she called a two-tier system that could breach World Trade Organization anti-discrimination rules.
“If France persists, China will take the necessary measures to protect the legitimate rights and interests of Chinese companies,” Huang said, adding that “France will bear all the consequences that ensue.”
How does France respond to the accusations?
A source within France's ministerial office for Foreign Trade and Attractiveness told Euronews the law is “not discriminatory” but was introduced to “protect the environment and consumers.” The source added that it is “in everyone's interest, including China's, to have a calm relationship with France, with the European Union, and a civil trade relationship.”
According to the source, even though there is no discrimination, China is within its rights to submit technical comments to the WTO. “The fact that China feels targeted is indeed something we have heard. We are of course ready to talk to them to understand to what extent they feel targeted. If China has technical comments, it is perfectly entitled to submit them to the WTO,” she said.
Is the law compatible with EU regulations?
The European Commission has previously expressed reservations about whether the draft law is compatible with wider EU law, particularly regarding provisions that clamp down on advertising from fast-fashion companies. However, the French source said the law is robust.
“We have taken the time to respond to the European Commission's concerns, to questions about compatibility with various directives. Questions remain, but we are confident. From our point of view, there are no outstanding issues,” the official said.
What could China's retaliation look like?
For now, China has not specified what retaliatory measures it could take. Beijing has previously targeted French interests: it imposed provisional anti-dumping measures on European brandy in October 2024, days after the European Union voted to press ahead with tariffs on Chinese electric vehicles. French cognac producers were among the businesses caught at the heart of that customs stand-off.
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What happens next?
France's Ministry for Europe and Foreign Affairs considers the claims baseless, and the country remains confident in the law's compatibility with EU regulations. China has not yet indicated whether it will escalate the dispute to the WTO or impose retaliatory measures.
The outcome of this trade dispute will be closely watched by the global fashion industry, particularly by fast-fashion companies operating in Europe and by exporters in China.